Included with the EVO Flight Mini Stinger

The EVO Flight Mini Stinger includes everything you need to fly, right out of the box. Here’s what is included:

• The EVO Flight Mini Stinger Micro RC Helicopter
• A 2.4 GHz, DSM-2 Spread Spectrum Transmitter (requires 4AA Batteries)
• A Portable Lipo Charger built into the transmitter
• 1 cell 3.7V 110mAh Li-Po Battery

The Evo Flight Mini Stinger is great for beginner and experienced pilots, because you do not have to buy any additional parts. You can use this helicopter to get experience and practice your orientation indoors when you cannot fly outdoors because of the weather.

Main Features of the Evo Flight Mini Stinger Indoor RTF RC Electric Helicopter

Like the Blade MCX the Evo Flight Mini Stinger has a proportional four channel radio. Four channel control means that pilots can fly the helicopter with four dimensions of freedom. The Evo Flight Mini Stinger can fly up/down, rotate left/right, pitch forwards/backwards, and bank left/right. With a four channel radio you can precisely control the Evo Flight Mini Stingers’ movement through all three dimensions. With a rotor size of 188mm (7.4”) and a length of 213mm (8.4”) this helicopter can easily fit in the palm of your hand.

The coaxial rotor design of the EVO Flight Mini Stinger provides this helicopter with great stability, and eliminates the need for a separate tail rotor to control yaw (rotation about the main rotor axis). The main rotors spin in opposite directions, canceling out rotor torque caused by their rotation. Coaxial RC helicopter are great for flying indoors, because of their stability and the precision control provided.

The Evo Flight Mini Stinger uses a tiny 1 cell lithium polymer battery for power. Unlike most micro RC helicopters, the battery is removable and interchangeable. Each cell provides 3.7 volts of power with a capacity of 110 mAh (Milli ampere hours). You charge the battery using the included transmitter, which runs off four “AA” alkaline batteries. A typical charge takes about 30 minutes and provides an average flight time of 6 to 8 minutes. Because the battery is interchangeable, we recommend that you purchase an extra so that you can use one while the other is charging.

Weighing only 1 ounce, the Evo Flight Mini Stinger is virtually crash proof. A sudden drop from a few feet above the ground won’t damage it, and in most cases minor collisions with walls are not a problem. Although it is not indestructible, the Evo Flights durability makes it an ideal present for anyone over 12 years of age.
If you want to get into the exciting world of RC helicopters, the Evo Flight Mini Stinger makes a great starting place. It will show you all the basics of RC helicopter flight, and can be used as a starting place to more advanced models. If you’re already an experienced RC helicopter pilot, you’ll like the Mini Stingers control and stability. Watch our site for tutorials on the Mini Stinger, including a how to for installing replacement parts.

Draganflyer UAV Helicopter Virtual Tour Panorama

To build one of these panoramic virtual tours aDraganflyer X6 or Draganflyer X4 is flown to the desired altitude. At which point aerial photos are taken at every 20° for a total of 18 aerial photos. Then a photo is taken with the camera facing directly down. Then the photos will be combined by using panorama tools graphical interface (PTgui) software.

For more information on how to get your Draganlfyer X6 or Draganflyer X4 pictures made into a virtual panoramic tour we recommend you check out the PTgui forums or contact NorthStudio.com.

We’re pleased to announce the release of 4 brand new Thunder Power Lipo batteries. We pride ourselves on carrying every Thunder Power battery manufactured. These recent additions represent some of

Thunder Power’s coolest new developments.

New Thunder Power 7.4V 2S 5400 Saddle Pack

This new battery from Thunder Power RC features a saddle shaped design, with two individual battery packs wired in series. This allows for greater flexibility and increased capacity. ROARR approved, this saddle pack lipo battery is perfect for all your RC cars and trucks.

Specifications for the Thunder Power TP-5400-2SPRSD Lipo

• Voltage: 7.4 V
• Cells: 2-Cell (2s)
• Capacity: 5400 mAh
• Max Continuous Discharge: 25C
• Max Burst Discharge: 50C
• Max Continuous Current: 135A
• Max Burst Current: 270A
• Weight: 331g
• Dimensions: 28 x 46.5 x 69 mm Saddle Pack
• Series: Pro Race Series Surface Pack
• Balance Connector: Thunder Power RC 4 Pin
• Connector: Deans Ultra
• Case Type: Standard

New Thunder Power Sport Race 3s 8000 Lipo

Expanding the Sport Race Series is the new 8000 mAh 3 cell 11.1 V pack. Capable of providing 22C continuous and 45C burst current, this battery is perfect for larger RC model airplanes. As with all our thunder power batteries, the 3s 8000 is fully compatible with our Lipo battery chargers. New to electric RC? We’ve got a great selection of Thunder Power compatible balancers and chargers available. This battery pack also features standard Deans connectors, so you can use it easily with your other standard RC equipment and ground vehicles.

Specifications for the Thunder Power RC TP-8000-3SSRD LiPo:

• Voltage: 11.1V
• Cells: 3-Cell
• Capacity: 8000mAh
• Max Continuous Discharge: 22C
• Max Burst Discharge: 45C
• Max Continuous Current: 176A
• Max Burst Current: 360A
• Weight: 530g
• Dimensions: 139 x 41 x 39mm

New Thunder Power Sport Race 2s 8000 Lipo

Designed specifically for ground vehicles, this battery pack is ROAR approved and fully compatible with all our Thunder Power chargers. Standard Deans connectors allow you to use this pack with all your RC ground vehicles.

Specifications for Thunder Power RC TP-8000-3SSRD LiPo

• Voltage: 7.4 V
• Cells: 2-Cell (2s)
• Capacity: 8000 mAh
• Max Continuous Discharge: 22C
• Max Burst Discharge: 45C
• Max Continuous Current: 176A
• Max Burst Current: 360A
• Weight: 382g
• Dimensions: 30 x 46.5 x 138 mm
• Series: Sport Race Series Surface Pack
• Balance Connector: Thunder Power RC 4 Pin
• Connector: Deans Ultra
• Case Type: Medium

New Thunder Power Pro Race 4s 5000

This brand new Thunder Power battery adds to the large Pro Race Series. Pro Race series batteries are specifically engineered for optimal racing performance. Capable of providing a maximum burst discharge of 80C, this battery adds incredible performance to your RC cars, trucks, and other electric surface vehicles.
<h2>Specifications for Thunder Power RC TP-5000-4SPR LiPo</h2>

• Voltage: 14.8 V
• Cells: 4-Cell (4s)
• Capacity: 5000 mAh
• Max Continuous Discharge: 40C
• Max Burst Discharge: 80C
• Max Continuous Current: 200A
• Max Burst Current: 400A
• Weight: 564g
• Dimensions: 46 x 46.5 x 138 mm
• Series: Pro Race 40C Series Surface Pack
• Balance Connector: Thunder Power RC 4 Pin
• Connector: Deans Ultra
• Case Type: XX-Large

New Thunder Power RC TP-5000-1SPRD Lipo

Featuring an extra large 5000 mAh capacity, this new Lipo battery is perfect for smaller RC cars, trucks, and other ground vehicles. This one cell battery provides 3.7 volts at a maximum burst current of 80C. Tested and approved at the ROAR lab this battery is officially approved for usage at ROAR sanctioned events. The TP-500-1SPRD Lipo battery also features standard Deans connectors, allowing you to use it with all your standard RC equipment and surface vehicles.

Specifications for Thunder Power RC TP-5000-1SPRD LiPo

• Voltage: 7.4 V
• Cells: 1-Cell
• Capacity: 5000mAh
• Max Continuous Discharge: 40C
• Max Burst Discharge: 80C
• Max Continuous Current: 200A
• Max Burst Current: 400A
• Weight: 145g
• Dimensions: 135 x 45 x 17mm
• ROAR Approved

Do you need chargers, balancers, connectors and other accessories for your lithium polymer rechargeable RC batteries? We carry a huge selection available for purchase online or over the phone.

We are pleased to announce the release of our latest UAV helicopter, the Draganflyer X4. Several hundred hours of research and development went into its design, bringing about a sleek, sophisticated UAV. The Draganflyer X4 features much of the same technology as the Draganflyer X6, but is available at a much lower cost. Designed for commercial, government, and military applications, the Draganflyer X4 provides affordable aerial photography and videography.

Diverging from our larger 6 rotor design, the Draganflyer X4 features the same quad rotor design used by our older helicopters. Four brushless motors independently drive four carbon fiber rotor blades, all controlled and monitored  by an advanced flight computer.

The flight computer uses SteadyFlight technology to process the inputs of seven individual sensors, including:

• A barometric pressure sensor
• Three accelerometers
• Three gyroscopes

The flight computer reads sensor outputs and precisely determines the motor outputs required to keep the helicopter flying straight and level. If selected by the pilot, the barometric pressure sensor is used by the helicopter to maintain altitude. Properly trimmed and balanced, the helicopter will hold its position in the air allowing you to get excellent aerial photographs and video.

Four different cameras have been customized to work with our UAV, including:

• A 12.1 MP digital still and video camera
• A micro color video camera
• low-light black and white video camera
• A FLIR (Forward Looking Infra Red) video camera

All of these cameras transmit wireless video via a 5.8 GHz transmitter built into the mount. Wireless video can be received using either the handheld controller (which includes its own flat patch video antenna) or the optional base station. Video glasses plug directly into the handheld transmitter, allowing you to see what the helicopter is seeing and get perfectly aimed aerial photographs and video. The optional base station is compatible with any modern PC running Windows and features three standard RCA output jacks. This allows you to use your own recording equipment with the cameras or even re-transmit the video stream if needed.

Because all wireless communication is subject to interference, all of our cameras now feature a built-in DVR that records a pristine, interference-free copy of your aerial video to an SD memory card. After you finish flying, plug the SD memory card into your computer and edit the video using the software of your choice. Each camera also features a custom designed mount with a remote tilt feature (adjustable via the handheld controller). Designed to give you the best quality video possible, each camera mount features balanced, oil-filled shock absorbers. The shock absorbers keep the recorded video free from vibration, guaranteeing that you get the best possible results.

The Draganflyer X4 UAV features an innovative case system that makes transporting the helicopter easier than ever. The entire Draganflyer X4 helicopter presses neatly into its pre-cut slot in the case. Each part and accessory fits into molded high-density foam inserts for safekeeping during transport. The transport case features a dual layer design with flight accessories in the top layer and the base station in the bottom layer. A patented, load-bearing system clips on to the transport case allowing it to be worn like a backpack, and transported just as easily. Built from flexible Cordura™ nylon, the load-bearing system is securely attached using Fastex™ hardware and adjustable carry straps.

The entire transport case fits neatly into a rugged ATA (Airline Transport Association) certified hard case, rated to last over 100 flights as airline baggage. The padlockable, all-metal, carpet-lined ATA case allows you to safely transport the helicopter anywhere in the world without worrying about damage caused by the rigors of travel as airline baggage.

Designed for small enterprises and projects on a budget, the Draganflyer X4 is our most affordable unmanned aerial vehicle ever. Use the power of a full featured VTOL UAV  for your project – the Draganflyer X4 makes professional quality aerial photographs and video easier to obtain than ever before.

So you’ve crashed your new Multiplex Easystar or Minimag. Now what? Don’t throw your model out, it’s extremely likely that it can be repaired to like-new condition. It turns out that the Elapor™ foam Multiplex planes are built out of is extremely crash resistant, and can even be re molded with heat. Elapor™ is also CA glue safe, making repairs simple and economical.

Gather Parts and Assess the Damage

After a crash occurs be sure to retrieve all the parts, no matter how small. Foam can be fitted back together like a jigsaw puzzle and glued in to place. So you want to make sure that no parts are left at the crash site. Put all the parts you retrieve in a bin and store them in a safe place until you’re ready to begin repairs. It’s generally a good idea to wait for a few hours or days before repairing damaged models. This gives you time to think about exactly what needs to be replaced, and how you would like to proceed.

Repairing Cracked and Broken Foam Parts

Repairing broken foam is very simple. Done correctly, you can hide the cracks and make your model look just like new. Here are the supplies that you will need:

1. Thick CA Glue
2. Clear Tape
3. Popsicle Sticks

Apply a generous amount of CA glue to the broken parts, then use the Popsicle sticks to smear the glue around and cover the entire broken surface. Hold the parts together under pressure and then wrap the clear tape around them so that they stick together firmly. Let the glue cure for at least one hour and then remove the tape. Repeat for all your broken foam parts.

Fixing Bent, Compressed, and Distorted Foam

Unlike Styrofoam, Elapor™ can be heated and re-molded to its original shape. There are two ways to do this, both are outlined below:

1. Hot water method – Boil a large pot of water, and then dip the distorted part for approximately 10 seconds. You will notice all of the foam cells enlarge and expand. This is what needs to occur for the remolding to take place. Using gloves or other thermal protection, bend the heated parts back to their original shape. Smooth out any bumps or surface defects using a metal spoon.
2. Blow Dryer Method – This method works well for smaller dents and bends. Simply take an electric hair dryer (not a heat gun), and gently heat the damaged area for a few seconds. After you see the foam cells start to expand, bend and smooth out the damaged area back to its original shape.

Replacing Electronic Components

Both the Multiplex Easystar and Minimag are compatible with Hitec’s radio components.

Need More Help?

Although we can’t exchange aircraft that have been damaged in a crash, we’re still here for you and can talk you through most repairs. Feel free to contact us and we’ll do our best to help you.

Have you ever wanted to mod your RC airplanes, perhaps to carry an explosive payload? Too bad – it’s illegal. Don’t worry though, here at Draganfly Innovations, we’ve found the next best thing: you can mod inexpensive RC planes to carry containers of inert powder, which will shatter and make a super nifty effect on the ground. All you need are 5 minutes and some common household materials:

What You Need

• Toothpick – We’ll use this to make a mount for the payload, and a mechanism that lets us deploy it remotely.
• Plastic Easter Egg (or similar container) – Plastic Easter eggs work best, because they split in two easily. You can find them at almost every craft store. Improvising here is fine, just make sure that your container is a reasonable size, and will open up with minimal force.
• Cellophane Tape – This mod isn’t permanent, just peel off the tape when your done with it.
• Plastic Drinking Straw
  
• Vortex Extreme RC Airplane – You can get one on our website. Similar models will also work, but if they’re of a different design, you’ll have to adapt these instructions accordingly.
• Talcum Powder, Flour, or any (safe) Powdery Substance – Basically, anything that spreads out in the air and makes a big cloud will do.

How to Mod Your RC Airplanes

1. Start by taking the wing off your RC airplane. You need it out of the way, because your going to be building the drop mechanism on the bottom of the plane. Besides, breaking foam wings is no fun – store it in a safe place until your finished these steps.
2. Cut about a 1 inch length of straw, and tape it to the tail boom, 2 inches back. You want to get the straw aligned parallel to the tail boom, and hanging right on the bottom. What we’re trying to do won’t work if the payload rubs against the tail and gets stuck. You might want to click this picture, to get a closer view.
3. 

   Tape the toothpick to the round end of the plastic egg. The aim is to give the toothpick an upward slant, so that the egg hangs on to your RC airplane under gravity.Try to leave as much of the toothpick as possible free – this gives you a more secure mount. It’s very important not to tape the Easter egg shut, because the whole point is to get it to split open on ground impact.

4. Fill the Easter egg with powder, and then snap it shut.
5. Slide the “bomb” onto your drinking straw launcher apparatus (see the picture on the right), and get the plane ready for flight.

Dropping the Bomb

The Easter egg you mounted is held on the airplane by gravity and wind resistance. To drop it, simply take off as usual, fly to a safe area (free of people, pets, and vehicles), and put your RC airplane in a nose dive. The “bomb” should slide off the mount, hit the ground, and produce a nice puff of smoke. Watch Out: many RC planes have crashed because the pilot was looking at the payload being dropped, and not paying attention to flying. Let spectators enjoy the bomb, and concentrate on landing your plane safely.

Here’s what the result of a properly detonated “bomb” looks like (the best explosion occurs at about 1:12 into the video):

Need RC airplanes for this project? Get a Vortex Extreme online. Perfect for beginners to learn how to fly, and affordable, it makes the ideal first RC airplane.

ROAR (Remotely Operated Auto Racers) is a national non-profit organization dedicated to promoting rc cars and trucks. ROAR also provides liability and bodily injury insurance for it’s members who race at ROAR sanctioned events and keeps a database of approved lithium polymer batteries. Tested at ROAR’s laboratory, approved lithium polymer batteries need to meet criteria including safety and performance. If you’re racing your electric car or truck at a ROAR sanctioned event, you should use approved batteries. We carry all of ROAR’s approved Thunder Power RC batteries, listed below:

You can browse through our huge selection of Thunder Power RC lipo batteries on our site. We pride ourselves on carrying every battery that Thunder Power RC manufactures, so if you see one that we’ve missed, feel free to contact us.

All RC airplanes and helicopters are controlled by servos - small, electromechanical devices that allow everything from controlled flight to payload releases. So what are servos?  How do they work? And how do you choose the ones that will work best in your model? We’ll answer all these questions, and take you through everything from the basics of servo operation to their technical details.

What is a Servo?

A servo is a device that can rotate to an arbitrary position, as set by the user. Servos usually consist of a small DC (direct current) electric motor, several gears, and a head where an arm or wheel can be attached. When the user tells the servo what angular position to move to, the servo rotates and holds that position until further input is specified. The servo holds position because external forces are always interacting with the aircraft, and would set control surfaces to undesired positions unless stopped. Servos exert a torque on external forces, that prevents them from changing the position of any control surface.

How Servos Work

A servos job is to convert the angular movement of a servo arm to the linear movement of a control surface. This is done by attaching linkages, called control rods to the servo arm and the associated control surface. When the servo head rotates, it pushes the control rod back and forth. The rod is linked to a control surface, and can move it up or down as the servo rotates.
Servos are controlled by three wires: two to provide the DC power that the motor needs, and one that sends the signal, controlling the servo. The signal wire works by sending the servo a series of pulses, which are interpreted by its internal circuitry. By varying the timing of each pulse, the servo knows exactly which position to move to.

RC Servo Motors

The motors that drive RC servos come in several different types. Here’s a list of the most common varieties, and some information on each to help you decide which ones to use:

• Coreless – Conventional motors use copper wires wrapped around metal cores to form electromagnets. In a coreless motor, there is a metal mesh that rotates around the permanent magnets. Coreless motors respond more quickly than conventional motors, because they don’t have to overcome the momentum associated with heavy metal cores.
• Brushless – Servos can be powered by brushless motors, giving them longer life, faster response time, and more torque.
• 3 Pole and 5 Pole – Electric motors have permanent magnets, called poles, that electromagnets are attracted to. Servo motors can have either 3 or 5 poles, with more poles providing better torque. If you’re new to RC or have a regular sport model, you probably won’t notice the difference between 3 pole and 5 pole servos.

Choosing the Right Servo

Servos have a number of defining properties that make them suitable for different applications:

• Torque – This is a measure of the servos strength, or how much “push” it has. More precisely, torque is the product of force and the radius at which it acts. This is shown graphically in the figure on the right. Bigger planes need high torque servos to move their large control surfaces. In general, servo size goes up with rated torque.
• Dimensions – Servos come in many different sizes, which you can choose from depending on your application.
• Weight – The weight of a servo depends on several variables. Most often recorded in grams, the weight of a servo is always reported on the package.
• Bearings – There are two ways to support the output shaft of a servo – bearings and brushes. Brushes are cheaper, but bearings last longer and operate more smoothly. Very small and very cheap servos tend to be brushed, while high end and very large servos generally have bearings. It’s possible to upgrade a brushed servo to bearings, with several upgrade kits being available on the internet.
• Gears – Most hobby grade servos use nylon gears, while higher end servos use metal gears. Metal gears add more weight, but their advantage is that they can’t “strip”, causing an RC helicopter or airplane to crash. Metal gears wear over time, which can cause “slop” in their rotation, but the gears can be replaced somewhat economically. In general, nylon servos are adequate for sport flying. If you’re particularly worried about losing a model in a crash, or are flying intense aerobatics, a metal geared servo is probably the right choice.
• Speed – Speed measures how fast the servo can move from one position to another. Different RC airplanes and helicopters will need servos with different speeds. For example: a trainer doesn’t need to change control surface positions rapidly, but a 3D helicopter or plane does. High speed servos are many times more expensive than standard ones.
• Digital / Standard – Servos can be of two types: digital, or standard. Both digital and standard servos can be used with a normal receiver, the real difference is performance. All servos use a series of short pulses as signals that determine what angular position they should maintain. This series of signals is usually very fast, somewhere around 50 pulses per second maximum. On a standard servo, this rate is so fast that small movements of the control sticks may not have an affect. This means that there’s a small deadband on the control sticks, in which no servo movement takes place. Although it’s not a problem on trainers and most sport class models, the deadband becomes a significant issue with 3D aircraft. Even a small delay with a 3D aircraft could cause a crash.
  Digital servos remove the deadband by speeding up the rate at which it receives      pulses. Usually, this is increased from around 50 to 300 pulses per second. This increase in resolution allows the servo to operate much more precisely.

All RC kits and ARFs will specify the type and brand of servo required. Generally, you should adhere to these recommendations.

Now that you know what servos to get for your model, you can browse the large number of servos available on our website.

What You Need

To do this project, you’re going to need a few materials:

• An RC helicopter, or RC airplane with 3 channel control or better – You’re going to need a stable platform to take pictures from. Helicopters are useful because you can hover in one position, but airplanes are cheaper. You might already have an airplane or helicopter around, but if you don’t, the Multiplex Easystar works well for this project. Note that to make a remote shutter function, more than 3 channels are needed.
• A lightweight camera, with remote shutter operation – You need to be able to remotely trigger the camera. This can be done a number of ways, but the simplest and most economical is to attach a servo to the top of your camera with rubber bands. Make it so that when you throw a spare channel switch on your transmitter, the servo arm will move and press down the shutter switch. As with any mod, feel free to create your own solution.
• A large protractor
• Some string and a weight – Clay works well as a weight, I’ll explain why you need it shortly.
• A drinking straw – You’re going to need this to build a sight for the protractor.
• Measuring Tape – You need to know the altitude of your aircraft, and to do this, you need to measure it’s distance from you. Landmarks with a known distance can also be used – consult any street map with a scale for these.
• A notebook / paper / pencil
• A friend to help – You can’t fly your aircraft and make measurements at the same time. Take a friend along to help you, and ask them to record the measurements.

The Math Involved

Now we come to the hard part – a little bit of math. You don’t really need to understand all these derivations, feel free to simply use the formula that I’ll give you. The problem is this: given an aerial picture, how can we figure out the scale?

We need the altitude of the airplane to figure out the image scale. This can’t be done directly, so we measure the angle (a), the distance (d), and use them to compute the height (h). This is a right triangle, and there are some handy trig functions that apply. In this case, we use the tangent function, which gives the ratio of the opposite and adjacent sides.  This is expressed as follows:

By taking the tangent of the angle a, and multiplying by the distance (d), we get the height (h). Here’s the formula that you would use:

So how do you get the angle? It’s simple: take the protractor and tape a piece of drinking straw to the flat bottom. Then attach a piece of sting to the bottom center of the protractor, so that it dangles straight down the 90 degree mark. Use the ball of clay to make a weight at the bottom of the string. Now, when you tilt the  protractor, the string will measure the angle. Be careful though: the angle with respect to the ground is not what’s read directly off the protractor scale. Reading the difference between the indicated angle and 90 degrees will give you the angle you need.

So why do we care about the altitude? Well, it turns out that the ratio of the altitude and the focal length of the camera is the image scale! You can find out the focal length of your camera by reading it’s manual. This is usually expressed in millimetres, so convert it to whatever  unit you have used to measured the distance, and thus the altitude in. Let’s put that all in a convenient formula:

And that’s the only formula you need. Just measure the distance, and the angle, know the focal length, and you’re done.

How to Do the Measurements

All that math was fun, but how do you actually measure distances using this method? I’ll illustrate with an example:

Suppose that you’ve just gone out to a field, and want to measure the distance between a tree and a building. The first step is to find a landmark you can fly over with a known distance. Using a measuring tape or map, you find that a nearby hill is 50 feet from where you’re standing. With a friend ready to measure and write down the angle, you launch your airplane and fly over the nearby hill, taking several pictures. Your friend sights the model aircraft through the protractor – straw device built earlier, and finds the angle to be 75 degrees.

Using a calculator, you find the altitude to be:

After landing, you download the pictures and print them full size, with no scaling. Your camera’s user manual reports that the focal length is 152 mm (millimeters). Converting this to feet is easy, just type it in Google or multiply by the number of feet per millimetre. 152 mm is 0.48 feet, so you plug that into the formula we derived earlier and obtain the following:

This means that distance measured on the picture is 0.000257 times as big as the real distance. You’re almost done: using a ruler, you measure the distance between the tree and building on the image to be 1 inch. Converting this to feet (because we want the distance between the building and tree in feet), gives a distance of 0.0833 feet. Now, multiplying this by 1 divided by the picture scale gives a final answer of 324 feet.

And that’s it – you’ve just measured the distance between two objects using nothing more than a RC aircraft, camera, and a little trigonometry. Just keep in mind that you have to know the distance between the airplane and you accurately for this to work – always take pictures right on top of the marker with a known distance.

© Draganfly Innovations Inc.
Phone: 1-800-979-9794 / 306-955-9907
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Brushless Motor Benefits

Before going into how brushless motors work, here’s why they’re useful:

• More Efficient – Brushless motors are much more efficient than conventional brushed motors. This efficiency has been measured to be between 85% to 95% better than brushed motors.
• Less electrical energy is wasted as heat,and more is used to do useful work.
• Reduced Noise – Brushless motors have fewer mechanical parts than brushed motors, so they emit less sound.
• Longer Lifetime – Fewer moving parts are in mechanical contact than in brushed motors, reducing wear.
• Reduced EM Interference – Brushless motors emit less energy as electromagnetic (EM) waves than brushed motors do. This contributes to their efficiency, and helps reduce radio interference.
• Torque, Voltage, And RPM Linearly Related – This means that the amount of torque or RPM produced by the motor divided by the voltage put in is a constant, making it easy to predict how much power you’re going to get.

How Brushless Motors Work

On a fundamental level, an electric motor’s only job is to convert electrical energy (like that provided by a battery) into mechanical energy, like the turning of a propeller or rotor blade. There are two basic facts that allow electric motors to work:

1. Electric and Magnetic Fields are Related - That is, every moving charge produces a magnetic field, and magnetic fields can produce electric charge.
2. Magnets Interact – Magnets will align when placed near to each other. All electric motors basically consist of two magnets. One of them is permanent, the other is a coil of wire that, when charged, becomes a magnet.

The motor is designed such that the magnetic fields produced by each of the magnets are always out of alignment, causing the motor axil to rotate. This is similar to what happens when you hold a permanent magnet to a compass – the compass swings position so that it lines up with the magnets field.

With the brushed motor design, the magnetic fields are kept out of alignment by turning on the different coils of wire that surround the motor axil in succession. Metal brushes make mechanical contact with the rotating axil and the contacts with each metal coil. As the axil rotates, the brushes contact different coils. The end result is that current flows through different coils at different times, constantly changing the magnetic field and rotating the motor shaft.

It’s here that we see the main problem with the brushed design: the contact between the motor coils and the brushes causes friction, which increases with speed. The metal coils wear out over time, and are prone to sparking. They can also ionize surrounding air, creating ozone. So how can we get around these issues? The answer lies in the brushless motor design. Instead of using mechanical brushes to turn on the various wire coils, an ESC (electronic speed controller) is used instead. The ESC switches the motor coils on or off rapidly, and is synchronized to the motor axil position.

Always look for an ESC with a capacity (measured in amps) greater than that of the motor you’re pairing it with.

Some Common Terms Explained

There are a number of special terms associated with brushless motors. Here are explanations for some of the most common:

• RPM – This is a measure of angular speed, or how fast something is rotating. A motor’s RPM is simply how fast it can rotate.
• KV Rating - Remember how we said that the relationship between voltage, torque, and RPM was linear for a brushless motor? It turns out that the number of RPM provided by each volt is the same, called  the KV number. The KV number’s useful because it let’s you figure  out how many volts you need to achieve a certain RPM, or vice versa.  For an example, a 980 KV motor powered by an 11.1 volt battery would  spin at 980 x 11.1 = 10878 RPM with no load. The KV rating always  assumes no load on the motor, so the actual RPM that your achieve  will be less than the one you calculate.
• Continuous / Burst Current – Continuous current measures how much current a motor can handle continuously, for an extended period of  time. Burst current measures how much current a motor can handle for a short amount of time, about a few seconds.
• Current Rating – This is the maximum current that a given motor can handle, measured in amps.
• Inrunner / Outrunner – These are the two major brushless motor  designs. An inrunner brushless motor has stationary coils, and a   rotating permanent magnet inside the coils on the motor shaft. An outrunner  brushless motor is the opposite, it has a rotating permanent   magnet, placed outside the stationary coils on the motor shaft . Outrunner motors have lower KV ratings, so they run at a lower speed with more torque. This could allow you to direct drive larger props without a gearbox. RC cars and boats tend to require inrunner brushless motors, rather than outrunners.
• Torque - Torque is a measure of angular force, or how much “push” a rotating shaft has.  Watt – This is a measure of power, or how fast energy is used.
• Volt – This measures electric potential, or how much “push” the electrons from a battery have. A greater voltage means that more   energy is being applied to a given amount of charge.

Choosing a Brushless Motor

Most airplane manufacturers will recommend certain brushless motors for different models. However, if this is not specified, a good starting point would be to check what other people are using locally,or search the web. We frequently visit RCGroups, RC Universe, and WattFlyer to see what the RC communities are using. If you have a brushed motor that you are replacing, choose a brushless motor that is the same physical size, and uses about the same wattage. To determine the wattage, multiply the current your old motor draws by the voltage it’s run at.

© Draganfly Innovations Inc.
Phone: 1-800-979-9794 / 306-955-9907
Email: info@rctoys.com
Web: www.rctoys.com
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The Blade MCX is a great RC helicopter

Replacing the Blade MCX RC Helicopter Flybar

The main flybar stabilizes the top rotor, and spins at a great speed. Because it’s built on top of the main rotors, it tends to fly off during a collision. Fortunately, it’s almost never damaged and most of the time can simply be snapped back into place. Should yours break for some reason, here’s how to install a replacement.

1. Check the Flybar For Damage – There’s very little that can actually break on the flybar, but check it against this picture to be sure it isn’t actually damaged.
2. Snap off The Flybar Linkage – You’ll find a small black linkage on the flybar (the plastic part, about 1 cm high, that dangles down freely), which connects to the top rotor blades. Snap it off gently, and place it somewhere where it won’t get lost.
3. Lift off the Flybar – The flybar is held between a black plastic clevis (the plastic holder on top of the rotor shaft). Gently spread the clevis apart using your fingers, and lift the flybar out.
4. Install the New Flybar - Slide the new flybars centre into the black plastic clevises between the top rotor blades. Line the plastic extrusions on the helicopter’s flybar up with the holes in the clevis and snap it into place. Do the same with the small linkage, snap it onto one of the plastic extrusions on the top rotor blades. It doesn’t matter which side of the top rotors you attach the linkage to.

Replacing the Blade MCX RC Helicopter Top Rotors

A severe crash can crack the top rotor blades. Repairing them with tape or glue isn’t a good idea, because it causes an imbalance that makes the helicopter hard to fly. Your best bet is to simply replace them – here’s how:

1. Unscrew The Rotor Blades – Using a small Philips head screwdriver, remove the two small screws holding the top rotor blades. Be sure to set the screws where they won’t get lost or roll away.
2. Remove The Rotor Blades – The top rotor blades lock into each other, gently pull them apart and remove them.
3. Install the New Rotor Blades – At the top of the rotor shaft, you’ll see two black holes protruding outwards. Place each rotor blade (right side up) into the shaft, and snap them together. It is possible to put the rotor blades in upside down – don’t do this. Make them look the same as the bottom rotor blades.
4. Re-install the Small Screws – Using a Philips head screwdriver, replace the two small screws that you removed earlier.

Replacing the Blade MCX RC Helicopter Landing Skid

The landing skid is one of the easiest Blade MCX parts to replace. It simply pulls off from the bottom of the helicopter fuselage. You don’t always have to replace a damaged landing skid, most of the time some thick or medium CA (super glue) can fix it perfectly.

1. Remove the Rechargeable Battery – You’ll need to hold on to the battery mount to remove the skid.
2. Remove the Skid – Grab the skid by the battery mount and pull it off gently.
3. Replace the Skid – Install a new landing skid by pushing it’s two pegs (found near the battery mount) into the holes in the bottom of the fuselage.  Be sure to do this gently – don’t damage the helicopter by using too much force.

Replacing the Blade MCX Inner Shaft

The inner shaft turns the top rotor blades. After a few crashes, the rotor head / hub where the flybar connects can become bent, or the inner shaft itself can snap. If you’re in a particularly bad crash and the inner shaft breaks, here’s what to do:

1. Remove The Battery and Skid – The battery slides out, and the landing skid can be pulled off.
2. Remove The Flybar – How to do this is mentioned above.
3. Remove The Top Rotor Blades – This was also previously mentioned.
4. Remove The Bottom Gear – On the bottom of the fuselage, you’ll find two white plastic gears. Remove the bottom one by loosening the screws on the silver washer glued to it. Don’t remove the little black screws completely because they are easy to loose. Just loosen them enough to let the bottom gear slide off. Then gently pull the bottom gear downwards and clear of the inner shaft.
5. Pull Out The Old Inner Shaft – The inner shaft can now be slid out of the outer shaft by pulling it upwards.
6. Insert the New Inner Shaft – Slide the new inner shaft into the hole on the top of the outer shaft – it should drop down easily.
7. Replace The Bottom Gear – Slide the bottom gear onto the inner shaft so that it meshes nicely with the motor shaft gear. Tighten the small black screws that you loosened earlier.
8. Re-Install All The Other Parts You Removed – Add the upper rotor blades, flybar, landing skid, and battery.
9. Test it – Make sure that turning the upper rotor blades makes the lower white gear move. If it doesn’t, then the small black screws on the lower gear aren’t tightened sufficiently.

Replacing Blade MCX RC Helicopter Rubber Grommets On The Canopy

The Blade MCX canopy is held on with small black rubber grommets. These rubber grommets can sometimes fall off and get lost, but replacing them is easy – here’s how:

1. Pick Up a Grommet – Yeah, I know this one sounds obvious, but picking up the small grommets without losing them is hard. The way that works best for me is to let one sit on a table, then press a finger down on it. The grommet should stick to your finger, and you can then place it where needed.
2. Push the Grommet Onto The Blade MCX Body – Push the grommet onto the shafts in the fuselage using your finger. Doing this isn’t easy, and it may take several tries.

© Draganfly Innovations Inc.
Phone: 1-800-979-9794 / 306-955-9907
Email: info@rctoys.com
Web: www.rctoys.com
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Prevent this from happening to your batteries by following these tips:

1. Store lithium polymer batteries in a flame proof LipoSack while charging. - Charging your lithium polymer batteries in a flame proof LipoSack can contain a fire should it occur. It could mean the difference between a minor clean up and the loss of your house or car. Also make sure that the storage area is well ventilated.
2. Read the manual – The importance of reading your battery and chargers manual cannot be emphasized enough. The battery manual will state the proper charging rates and times.
3. Use common sense – Don’t charge batteries unsupervised. Even when you do everything right, incidents can occur. Also, do not charge lithium polymer batteries in your car. A flame out can be disasterous if it occurs inside a vehicle.
4. Use the right battery charger – Charging a lipo battery with a charger designed for other batteries will cause problems, and will probably result in a fire.
5. Charge lithium polymer batteries on a fire proof surface – It’s really important to charge lithium polymer batteries on a flame proof surface such as concrete. In the event of a fire, a fire proof charging surface will stop it from spreading, or at least slow it down significantly.
6. Keep a fire extinguisher, or bucket of sand near the charging area – If a fire does occur, you don’t want to be running around looking for something to put it out with. Water will not help put out a lipo fire. Being a conductor, it will cause a short circuit and could even make the fire worse.
7. Don’t charge lithium polymer batteries near flammable substances – Lithium polymer batteries are flammable enough as it is. Don’t make the problem worse by storing flammable substances near charging batteries.
8. Check lithium polymer batteries for swelling prior to charging and each use – A puffed battery is unstable, and can be in danger of exploding. If you see a puffed battery, immediately disconnect it from the charger or aircraft and put it in a bucket of water. Dissolve a few tablespoons of salt in the water to aid conductivity, and leave the battery in the bucked for about 4 days. The salt water depletes any power remaining in the battery by creating a short, and it can’t catch fire while underwater. After the four days are up, take the battery out and cut off the connectors (which may come in handy for other projects). You can then dispose of the battery in the trash. The battery no longer contains toxic metals, won’t harm the environment, and by using the salt water you’ve guaranteed that it won’t catch fire. This should be done as soon as you see a puffed battery. You can’t salvage a puffed battery, the best you can do is to dispose of it safely.
9. Never charge a lithium polymer battery in a model – If you charge a lipo battery in your RC airplane or helicopter, you are risking the total loss of your model. Only charge lithium polymer batteries on a flame proof surface, in a LipoSack.
10. Make sure the charging leads are connected properly – Connecting positive to negative and negative to positive can cause a major fire.
11. Don’t overcharge batteries – By their very chemistry, lithium polymer batteries cannot be discharged to a potential of less than 3 volts without damage. For the same reason, don’t charge them to over 4.2 volts. This means that you have to land your rc aircraft before the motors stop turning. Some aircraft come equipped with a voltage cut-off, others do not. If you don’t have a voltage cut-off, then land as soon as you sense the propeller or rotors slowing down.
12. Double check that the charger settings are correct – Lithium polymer battery chargers require you to set the battery configuration. Ensure that this configuration matches the battery you’re charging, or else your lipo could get overcharged and explode. Some chargers automatically sense the battery configuration, but make sure that the setting is correct regardless. They have been known to be wrong on occasion.
13. Balance lipo batteries – Lithium polymer batteries have balance connectors, designed to make sure that each cell in the pack has the same charge. If this isn’t the case, some cells can become overcharged and explode.
14. Never let the battery leads touch – If the battery terminals touch each other, the battery will short circuit and, in most cases, be destroyed. If this happens and you get a puffed battery, dispose of it by following tip 9 above.
15. Don’t ever store / charge lithium polymer batteries in your car – Unless you hate your car. Batteries can and do explode, and if this happens inside a vehicle the result is usually catastrophic. On a hot day, temperatures can rise inside the car and cause stored packs to rupture.
16. In the event of a crash, remove the battery and supervise it for at least 4 hours – A crashed plane’s battery can appear fine, but can have an internal short circuit. This short circuit can cause an explosion, even hours after the crash occurred. A LipoSack is a great place to keep a battery that’s been in a crash. If enough time elapses and nothing happens, then your battery is probably fine. If you see puffing, dispose of it immediately following the instructions in tip 9 above.

Always use common sense, read the manual, and know the risks associated with lithium polymer batteries. Handled properly, the risk of a fire is relatively small. Store lithium polymer batteries in a LipoSack for additional saftey.

© Draganfly Innovations Inc.
Phone: 1-800-979-9794 / 306-955-9907
Email: info@rctoys.com
Web: www.rctoys.com
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1. Keep A Few Replacement Parts Handy – Accidents happen, and waiting for replacement parts to come in the mail can be a pain. When you order a Blade MCX, also order a few of the most needed replacement parts. These include the main landing gear, stabilizer fly bar, upper main rotor blades, and inner shaft. We’ll post a detailed how to for adding replacement parts to the Blade MCX shortly.
2. Trim the Heli For Easier Flight – The Blade MCX transmitter has trim tabs that you can use to cancel out unwanted movement in flight. Apply trim by bringing the helicopter to a stationary hover, and letting go of the control sticks for a moment. Note the direction that the RC helicopter drifts in, and  press the buttons near the transmitter sticks in the opposite direction to compensate. Each trim tab corresponds to the control stick it’s placed next to. Page 15 of the manual has detailed instructions for trimming the Blade MCX.
3. Land Before LVC (Low Voltage Cut-off) – At low voltage cut-off, the RC helicopter’s red LED lights will start to blink. This means that the lipo battery is at a minimum voltage, and can’t be drained further without damage. Land immediately. Flying past LVC will damage the battery, and you’ll get shorter flight times as a result.
4. How To Fly Faster – Flying forwards using only the pitch control doesn’t make the Blade MCX go very fast. You can increase speed by increasing throttle as you pitch forward, and by flying in a gradual left or right turn.
5. Lubricate Moving Parts – If you have trouble controlling the Blade MCX, it could be because parts are not moving freely enough. Use a small amount of light lubricate on the moving parts near the rotor head to allow them to move more smoothly.
6. Replace the AA Batteries Included With The Blade MCX – The AA batteries included in the box aren’t as good as those you can get locally. They work fine in the transmitter, but they won’t charge the Blade MCX battery nearly fast enough.
7. Keep A Spare Battery Charged When Flying – Why interrupt flying to let the battery charge? If you have a spare battery for the Blade MCX, you can charge one while you use the other, reducing down time for charging.
8. Keep the Main Shaft Clean – Foreign objects, especially hair can get stuck in the Blade MCX main shaft. This will make the motors struggle, and could stop them completely. Check for hair or other objects wound around the main shaft before flying and remove any you find with a pair of tweezers.
9. Use Rechargeable Batteries in The Charger – Using rechargeable batteries in the Blade MCX battery charger will save you money.
10. Close Doors And Turn Off Fans – Closing doors and turning off fans in the flying area will reduce drafts and make flying easier. The Blade MCX was not designed to handle any wind.

© Draganfly Innovations Inc.
Phone: 1-800-979-9794 / 306-955-9907
Email: info@rctoys.com
Web: www.rctoys.com
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We are pleased to announce that we will be adding the amazing Blade MCX indoor micro RC helicopter to our inventory. The Blade MCX is the next step in the world of indoor RC helicopters, and has several amazing
features that set it apart from the crowd.

Blade MCX Main Features: What you Get In The Box

The Blade MCX includes everything you need to fly, right out of the box. Here’s what’s included:

• Blade MCX RTF Micro RC Helicopter
• 2.4 Ghz, DSM-2, Spread Spectrum Transmitter (Includes 4 AA Batteries)
• Portable Lipo Battery Charger (Includes 4 AA Batteries)
• 1 cell, 3.7 volt, 110 mAh lipo battery
• Small Screwdriver for Assembly
• Extra Canopy Securing Rings

Because you don’t have to purchase additional parts to fly the Blade MCX, it’s perfect for beginning pilots who are new to the hobby. The
Blade MCX is also well suited to pilots with previous RC helicopter experience, for flying indoors and during the winter months.

Helicopter Features

The most innovative feature of the Blade MCX is it’s fully proportional, four channel radio. Having four channel control means that pilots can fly the helicopter with four dimensions of freedom. Just like a large, expensive RC helicopter, the Blade MCX can fly up/down, rotate left/right, pitch forwards/backwards, and bank left/right. Having a four channel radio system lets you precisely control the Blade MCX’s movement through all three dimensions. Four channel control is nothing new to RC Helicopters, but what makes the Blade MCX special is it’s size. With a rotor diameter of 7.5 inches, and a length of 7.9 inches, it can easily fit into the palm of your hand. It is very uncommon to find RC helicopters of this size and price range with four channel control.

The Blade MCX features a coaxial rotor design. This coaxial design gives the helicopter great flight stability, and removes the need for a separate tail rotor to control yaw (rotation about the main rotor
axis). The main rotors spin in opposite directions, cancelling out any yaw caused by their rotation. Coaxial helicopters are great for flying indoors, because they are inherently stable and so can be controlled very precisely.

The Blade MCX uses a tiny 1 cell lithium polymer battery for power. Unlike most micro RC helicopters, the battery is removable and interchangeable. Each cell provides 3.7 volts of power with a capacity of 110 mAh (Milli ampere hours). You charge the battery using the included base station, which runs off four “AA” alkaline batteries. A typical charge takes about 30 minutes and provides an average flight time of 6 to 8 minutes. Because the battery is interchangeable, we recommend that you purchase an extra so that you can use one while the other is charging.

The Blade MCX uses a genuine Spektrum DS-2 type radio system. The helicopter radio is fully compatible with many other DS-2 transmitters, including the:

• Spektrum DX5e
• Spektrum DX6i
• Spektrum DX7
• JR X9303
• JR 12X

Modular radios which have Spectrum modules installed will also work with the Blade MCX. Please note that the Spektrum DX6 is not compatible.

Spread Spectrum technology greatly reduces the chance of any radio interference from other aircraft of sources. It also uses a short transmitter antenna, allowing the transmitter to fit in a small and sleek case.

Blade MCX Transmitters are all mode 2, meaning that throttle and rudder are controlled with the left stick and pitch and roll with the right. The transmitter throttle stick is not spring loaded, so it remains at the position that it was last set to. Most RC helicopter pilots prefer this, as it allows you to remove pressure on the throttle stick while hovering. The radio has a dual rate feature, which allows you to choose how fast the helicopter responds to your commands. Beginners should start with mode 1, which can be set by pressing down on the right control stick and holding until the red light starts blinking. Setting the transmitter to mode 2 is done the same way.

Weighing only 1 ounce, the blade MCX is virtually crash proof. A sudden drop from a few feet above the ground won’t damage it, and in most cases minor collisions with walls are not a problem. In the event of a crash where damage does occur, we carry a selection of the most commonly needed replacement parts. Although it is not indestructible, the Blade MCX’s durability makes it an ideal gift for anyone over 12 years of age.

If you want to get into the exciting world of RC helicopters, the Blade MXC makes a great starting place. It will teach you all the basics of RC helicopter flight, and can be used as a stepping stone to more advanced models. If you’re already an experienced RC helicopter pilot, you’ll be impressed with the Blade MCX’s control and stability. Watch our site for tutorials on the Blade MCX, including a how to for installing replacement parts.

You can check out the blade MCX on our website.

© Draganfly Innovations Inc.
Phone: 1-800-979-9794 / 306-955-9907
Email: info@rctoys.com
Web: www.rctoys.com
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• Clean Your Transmitter - Everyone loves the way brand new transmitters and other RC equipment looks, but after a few trips to the flying field it can accumulate dust, grass, and other debris, You can make your transmitter look like new by brushing it off with some stiff paintbrushes. Get the dirt trapped in hard to reach places using compressed air, available from most computer stores in canned form. A soft cloth and some glass cleaner solution can be used to wipe off any displays.
• Secure an Antenna – Many RC model airplanes have long wire antennas, which need to be fixed to the fuselage to prevent them from dangling in the wind. Make a secure and adjustable attachment by taking a short (~1 inch) length of fuel tubing, and passing the wire through. Then push a small pinhead into the fuel tubing so that the wire can’t fall out easily. You can then glue the fuel tubing onto your airplanes fuselage wherever it’s convenient. Tighten the antenna by gently pullign on the end.
• Safe Storage for Wings and Fuselages – Keeping RC model airplane wings and fuselages out of harms way can be a hassle. Many hardware stores sell portable shelving units, which you can use to safely store your RC model airplanes. Install the shelves on a wall, but leave off the solid wood planks that create a surface. What you will be left with is a series of protruding beams, that you can set RC model airplane wings and fuselages on. The shelves let you stack several aircraft on top of each other for efficient storage.
• Securing Screws with Silicon – Ordinary silicon gel can be used to prevent screws from vibrating loose. As an added bonus, you can peel the silicon off easily when you need to undo the screw.
• Prevent Parts from Rolling Away  – You can prevent small screws and other metal parts from rolling off your workbench by taking any large, flat container and gluing some magnetic strip material to the bottom. Metal parts will stick to the magnet and will not be able to roll away.
• Remove Thread Lock Compound – Thread locking compounds are great for preventing parts from vibrating loose in flight, but removing screws secured with thread lock compound  can be a pain. Avoid stripping screw heads by first touching a hot soldering iron to the screw for a few moments. The heat will melt the thread lock compound, allowing the screw to come loose easily.
• Cheap Wingtip Protectors – Model airplane wingtips can get scuffed on grass and pavement runways. Prevent this by adding small strips of plastic, obtained from soda bottles. The plastic can be attached using glue or small wood screws.
• Secure Servo Leads – Having a servo lead come off in flight can be disasterous. Prevent this by tying the servo cable in a loose knot after you plug in the leads. This will prevent the cable from coming loose in flight, and removing them is a snap.
• Avoid Pulling The Connectors Off Servos – Pulling the wire off a servo connector is annoying. Prevent this by bending in the ends of ordinary tweezers, to make a tool that can grab on and pull of a servo lead. The bent ends can grab right on to a stubborn connector.

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© Draganfly Innovations Inc.
Phone: 1-800-979-9794 / 306-955-9907
Email: info@rctoys.com
Web: www.rctoys.com
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